What you will need/What I used:
3M 100 grit for bare surfaces for initial roughing
Glaze: American Tradition (from Lowe's) Faux Antiquing Glaze--Asphaltum. I went through 2 bottles.
Sheets: To protect my rear from the garage floor. Don't you love these that came with our camper? And something to elevate doors off ground: These tubs are from the dollar store. I had many on-hand from my spa consultant days. Foot soak anyone?
2 good paint brushes: One brush for the painting of the inside edges, one brush for the glaze. But if you have a lot of cabinets, I would think about investing in a paint sprayer if your space allows. Our space didn't.
1 foam paint roller: for the surface area of the cabs. 4" or 6"
Lots of lint-free towels/rags: These are for the glaze removal. I bought a bag from from Lowe's. They are a t-shirt material. I used one for cleaning, one for deglossing, and the LOTS for the glazing process.
Tackcloth: for removing particles/dust after sanding
Fan: Helped the drying time for the paint.
Plastic bowl: for the glaze
Radio: After a full weekend in the garage, you will know the playlist by heart.
Babysitter or Hubby: Hubby entertained the kiddos. Couldn't have done this without him.
Set of paint clothes: I am the world's worst about just jumping into painting, without regard to my clothes or what I have on. I always think, oh, I'll be careful! Whatever. Go throw on an old sorority shirt and some shorts and designate them as your paint clothes.
PATIENCE: You will need it. When you run low, step away from the cabinets. Take sip of Screwdriver. Breathe. Sip. Breathe. Sip. Ok, continue.
Gladiators Ready? Contenders Ready?
Here we go.
We can have lots of fun! Oh wait, sorry--random NKOTB moment.
Remove doors and cabinet hardware
Step 2, 3, 4--Prep
My cabinets are in 3 sections. Due to space, I worked one section at a time. Or you could tackle top cabs first, then work the bottom, or vice versa..whatever you wanna do. Since I was working in sections, I didn't have to label my doors, because I knew where they belonged. But if you are tackling all doors at once, then you might want to label them.
I cleaned all of them, then sanded all of them, then deglossed. Like an assembly line.
Step 5: Time to paint.
I started with the backs of the doors first. That way I would end up painting the door fronts last. Make sense?
Use the brush for the inside crevices/inset edges. Then use the roller for the bigger surface area.
You do NOT have to paint the backs of your doors. It took a lot of extra time to paint the inside of the doors, but to me, it gave it more of a custom look. And PLUS, when it came to glazing, I mastered my technique on the back of the door, not the front of the door.
After 1st coat dries, sand with the 220 grit sponge. Use the tack cloth to remove particles.
Paint 2nd coat.
After 2nd coat dries, sand again with the 220. Use the tack cloth to remove particles.
(Sometimes I didn't sand in-between coats...Most of the time I forgot. But I tried to remember because since I was going to be glazing, I wanted as much wood grain to come through as possible. So don't freak out if you forgot.)
NOW...On to the glazing process!
Pour your glaze into a bowl.
Have panic attack. Breathe. Sip Screwdriver.
The bottle says there is a 15 minute window after you apply the glaze. I tried to get the look I wanted within 5 minutes. And make sure your fan isn't blowing during your glazing process as to not dry out the glaze sooner than later.
Dampen your lint free cloth, then start wiping the door. If it's not wiping off as much as you would like, get the cloth a little more wet. If you take off more than you wanted, apply more glaze, then wipe off till you get the look you want.
I wiped the outside edge first.
Once I got the look I wanted, I made sure the other doors matched up to each other....so one wasn't darker or lighter than the other.
And thank you to Jenny at Anything Pretty. Her paint and glaze tutorials are awesome, too!
Edited to Add:
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